Tuesday, January 11, 2011

"Carbonara di Mare by Pacianca" here is the recipe. An 'invention of the families of compulsory Senzuno (Maremma Toscana) in early 900

"Carbonara "...... a plate full of emotion on which was written about everything and more. To this day, in addition to transcribing the recipe for one of the dishes cooked to Pacianca Follonica GR, take this opportunity to do a 'assist the fantastic book "LA PASTA" - 600 traditional, regional dishes (recipes of the Italian Tavern ) - Slow Food Editore - released a few weeks and that is "shaking" positive our world. This is not a trivial or even minimalist text.  Good editors who have only thought to put in the middle: the name of the dish and its recipe, the Osteria Slow Food that is proposing in its menus and small items of information, with an explicit invitation to the reader to "prove" courageously relying completely. We (www.pacianca.it) are proud to be part of the family Slow Food, but, more importantly, to feel part of a movement so different and so alike at the same time ....

Proud to be born in SENZUNO
I'm always in this world, with that spark that made me ask as a child to grandmother, mother and aunts to turn what was in the dish so good and if I could help them prepare it .... here, many small grains that are now lined up a mountain of things, techniques, sensitivity, times, moods, seasons, food and memories of happiness, smiles and anger: a short COLOR OF TASTE. Let's go back to describing the history of this dish that has its roots in a time of real poverty in the small fishing village of Senzuno, a handful of houses of wood wedged between the pine forest and the beach of the Gulf of Follonica. A place that still has a history shrouded in mystery and magic to a community that is so unite truly random and that is losing its identity primordial. Zelindo my grandfather was born in Vicolo del Bacio in Pienza (Siena) arrives with a cart pulled by a mule in the early 900, my Granmother Gina while she stood in the quiet city of Grosseto. When love blooms are two teenagers who marry after a flight into the ideal haven of the village of Senzuno. Thus was born my mother's family that he could survive with almost nothing (“Senzuno”: mean.. “no money”) thanks to the Foundry Ilva of my grandfather and fished in the occasional stretch of sea in front of the house. The whole community lived a little way through the day and even some total improvisation. But the amazing thing is that in this place people and families came from all parts of Italy: from the sea came from Sicily, Campania and Tuscany from Tosco Emiliano Apennines and the mountains of Pistoia and many families of Modena on this.
But the advent of households in the south to the food community has been prodigious. Besides the sensitivity of the age-old Italian peasant cuisine of the central regions to a large extent similar and whose firings were good neighbors, the presence of bells and Sicilian mothers represented the dawn of a new sensibility, especially in the cooking of fish and humid with it did. The tradition of the “Calderotto”in in Follonica (a bland fish soup good at all hours) or consumption of boiled octopus seen taking away from pasta with anchovies or sardines, the "Scoglio” with fresh tomatoes, the octopus stewed and how much fish the Gulf it could offer. So my grandmother, the real cook of the family lit, has accepted many proposals contamination showing curiosity, respect and skills among the fires. The pastes were prepared and consumed continuously and eggs when we went there ne'er a good dough for Pici (of Siena), Acqua Cotta, a vegetable soup and vegetables with Frascarelli, but almost always with seasonal sauces vegetables or important occasions with meat sauce and / or mushrooms in which towered Tortello and Maccherone. In the winter and during the cold season the pasta made of scraps of chicken or pork, and Carbonara praise of the Apennines were the best we could eat, as well as Polenta (ubiquitous breakfast and dinner). Multietnich a community we can say perhaps because the biggest obstacle for any of them was to understand the various dialects (Italian) and not being able to communicate in an Italian enough, but time spent together and the years to come up with a meal for the family has decoder generates a natural fact that it was useless just to Chimera (a fisherman's historic Senzuno) that has never stopped communicating - with anyone - in his Sicilian incomprehensible. As long as a child I could sit at table with the great start of my memories of Grandma Gina gourmet who introduced me this dish very tasty result of a mix of cuisines. The mussels with bacon, clams with courgette, egg with cheese and a sprinkle of pepper on it all: "Eat it .. grow up!" I pray and eat without me. Not prepared her very often, but you could tell that he liked to do it with great excitement. At home we went for the throat over pasta with anchovies for octopus and sea food done in the oven, while the Cacciucco (fish soup) strictly with the fish bone meal that was prepared Zelindo grandfather with a calm and incredible that the occupied all day. A decade later with the excuse of Pacianca we were able, with my cousin Carla, a re-created this dish a success that really still beyond me.

A big pot...
After this little story is the time that the recipe for those who purchase the book "The Pasta”, Carbonara di Mare is located on pg. 81, between "Carbonara" and "Carbonara di Lago short ".... I invite you to try it and while assoporate think that those who prepared one hundred years ago, was that it was summer or winter, went into the water to seize a little mussels, look for two clams, cockles or rock lamps and a couple of eggs somewhere they were, while none of the zucchini longing, but be assured that the imagination of those who had not really hungry he stopped at a bench empty a market as unfortunately happens today ... buon appetito! 

"Carbonara di Mare" (4 people)
Carbonara di Mare by PAcianca 2010-2011

320 gr. spaghetti
1 small white onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
100 gr. smoked bacon, diced
1 courgette, cut into thin strips
200 gr. clams
24 mussels
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 eggs
50 gr. grated Parmesan cheese
A touch of chilli and oregano
Chopped fresh parsley
Olive oil q.b.
Salt and pepper q.b.

In a large pan, sauté in olive oil, chopped onion and garlic, with chilli, oregano, bacon and courgette. Deglaze with white wine and add to the pan while the mussels well. Cover for two minutes until the mussels and clams have opened. At this point, drain the spaghetti cooked al dente and toss in the pan with the two cloves of crushed garlic for a minute. Add the eggs previously beaten, Parmesan, salt and pepper, mixing at medium flame, trying not to wipe it all too. S
pread on plates equitably distributing the fruits of the sea, finish with parsley and serve.
"Who eats the remains."

by Massimo Bucci / Carla Cecchetti  
"Pacianca Osteria - Follonica (GR) - Maremma Toscana - Italy